• this was done over 10 years ago and only now being written up from my records and photographs. At the time of the big financial crashI I had to sell the boat (to save my house) and bought it back 2 years later to live on. The marine toilet and plumbing system that I had installed previously was not working correctly, but after some minor fixes (replacing the hand pump and cleaning out the thru hulls) it still works well today. 

NECESSARY TOOLS & SUPPLIES:

1.Dremel tool with abrasive cutting wheels.  This is used to cut out old hoses in difficult-to-reach areas and also to cut and trim new hoses and plastic bends.

2. An old serrated steak knife. also for cutting Hoses.

3. A Propane blowtorch for briefly heating hose so that it can be stretched over barbed fittings.

4. 3M Adhesive Sealant 4000 UV . This is used between barbed fitting and hoses to fill voids and make sure it will never leak or slip off - used also between hard plastic bends and sanitation hose

5. Island GIRL Cleansers (IG Pink is the most versatile and safe) . Used  to clean up tools (and hands!) from the 3M sealant.

6. Old Shop Vac and bits of hose and Duct tape for sucking out residue from the holding tank.

7. A roll of "Duct Tape" and a roll of black PVC electrical tape,

9. A selection of small hand tools to tighten hoses tighten fittings etc.

ITEMS NEEDED:

Jabsco Manual flush toilet 

New Marelon Diverter valve ( Forespar).     

Piece of Teak or other nicely grained wood  to support toilet base.

Heavy Duty White vinyl hose (Sealant™ Odersafe Sanitaion hose): to replace all original hoses that had allowed permeation by  foul fumes.

Heavy duty (non-perforated ABA) hose clips ( perforated ones break and corrode  more easily)

New 90 degree chrome outside vent (Tempo®, 3/8 inch ID).

3/8 inch Synthetic rubber hoses for vent fittin ) gasoline hose from Autoparts store).

3/4 Inch heavy duty hot water hose for clothes washer (more durable than regular rubber hose). Heat the ends where passing over a barbed fitting.

PROCEDURE

First, photographs were made of hose routings. Then, hoses were cut and old toilet removed. A wood base was cut to size and varnished, ready to receive the new toilet.

Then, the old stinky hoses were removed except for those passing though the bulkhead between toilet and sanitation tank and thru-hulls.  

Next,  prepare the old Shop Vac with  narrow hose attached with duct tape to the regular vacuum hose. Then use this to suck out old contents of sanitation tank. Rinse with disinfectant chemicals and fresh water until clean.

New hose  was attached to old hoses passing through the bulkhead, using straight barbed plastic connectors and hose clamps. The  clamps were covered vinyl electrical tape so that they would not catch on edges of the bulkhead as the new hose was routed through the bulkhead by pulling on the old hose. As seen here....

Using old hoses and photographs for reference, other new hoses were made up with with "odor-safe"  white hose. Where tight bends were required use cut-down hard plastic fittings from a hardware store , as shown below: 

Two hose clips were used on the thru hull fitting (not shown) to avoiding possibility of it coming off (AND SINKING THE BOAT!). The pic shows connection to the Marelon Diverter Valve (diverts toilet outlet to either thru hull or to sanitation tank) 

Here is how the toilet was mounted in the shower-head area of my 1990  Gulf-32 Sailboat.